The story of the Omega Seamaster
Omega launched the Seamaster in 1948 for its centenary as a watch for town, sea and country, built on what it learned making water-resistant watches for the Royal Air Force. Since GoldenEye in 1995, James Bond has worn a Seamaster in every 007 film.
Chapters
- 2018 to todayMaster Chronometer and 75 years
For its 25th anniversary in 2018 the Diver 300M grew from 41 mm to 42 mm, took a ceramic wave dial and the Master Chronometer calibre 8800, and moved its date to 6 o'clock. The same year Omega reissued the 1948 Seamaster in 1,948 pieces, and in 2023 it marked 75 years with 11 Summer Blue references.
- 2002 to 2017Aqua Terra, Planet Ocean, Co-Axial
The family widened with the Aqua Terra of 2002 and the Planet Ocean of 2005, the latter carrying George Daniels' Co-Axial escapement in calibre 2500. Omega also reissued the Seamaster 1948 for the 2012 London Olympics and brought back a modern Seamaster 300 inspired by the 1957 original.
- 1993 to 2004Wave dial and a naval commander
The Seamaster Diver 300M arrived in 1993, and its chronograph, with a wavy dial, was named Watch of the Year 1994 by Armbanduhren. In 1995 costume designer Lindy Hemming chose a blue Diver 300M for James Bond in GoldenEye, reasoning that it was the most appropriate watch for a naval Commander.
- 1957 to 1969The Seamaster 300 goes under
In 1957 the Seamaster 300 joined the Speedmaster and Railmaster in Omega's professional trilogy, its water resistance signalled by a Naiad star on the crown. Cousteau's team relied on it during Precontinent II in the Red Sea in 1963, and from 1967 Omega built a small batch with fixed bars for the British Royal Navy and Army.
- 1948 to 1956A centenary watch for town
The first Seamasters of 1948 were modelled on the utilitarian watches Omega supplied to the British Ministry of Defence. Their key feature was an O-ring gasket that took water resistance to 60 metres, but they were sold as elegant watches for active people rather than dive instruments.
- 1932 to 1947The Marine and the war
Omega's diving story starts with the Marine of 1932, sold as the first watch for civilian divers and tested to 73 metres in Lake Geneva in 1936. During the Second World War Omega supplied most of the water-resistant watches worn by Royal Air Force pilots and navigators.
Worn by
As Bond in GoldenEye he wore the quartz Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2541.80, chosen by costume designer Lindy Hemming, then the automatic ref. 2531.80 in Tomorrow Never Dies. The Bond link has stayed unbroken since.
In Casino Royale he alternated between a Diver 300M ref. 2220.80 and a Planet Ocean ref. 2900.50.91, then wore Planet Ocean models in Quantum of Solace and Skyfall, a titanium one made specially for Skyfall's action scenes.
He has worn a midsize quartz Seamaster Diver 300M with a blue wave-patterned dial for over 20 years; it was a gift from his mother, Princess Diana, before her death in 1997. He wore it alongside a Garmin on his other wrist in 2023 and at Royal Ascot in 2025.
Moments
At Christie's 50 Years of James Bond auction in London in October 2012, the titanium Planet Ocean Daniel Craig wore in Skyfall sold for GBP 157,250 (about USD 254,273) against a USD 9,000 to 10,000 estimate, with proceeds to the charity ORBIS.
At the Phillips Racing Pulse sale, a circa 1970 Seamaster 300 ref. ST 165.024 made for the British Royal Navy, with fixed spring bars and military markings, sold for USD 258,300 against an estimate of USD 30,000 to 60,000.
In summer 1963 Cousteau's team used the Seamaster 300 in the Red Sea while proving divers could live in a saturated gas environment for long periods.
For GoldenEye in 1995, costume designer Lindy Hemming chose a Seamaster because she judged it right for a naval commander, drawing on Omega's military heritage.
Generations and strap changes
- 2023Ref. 234.30.41.21.03.002
The 75th anniversary Summer Blue Seamaster 300: 41 mm steel, 13.9 mm thick, 48 mm long, calibre 8912 with 60 hours of reserve.
21 mm between the lugs per Fratello.
- 2018Ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001
The Master Chronometer Diver 300M: 42 mm steel, blue ceramic dial with laser-engraved waves, calibre 8800, 13.56 mm thick and 49.90 mm lug to lug.
20 mm between lugs per Omega; the case grew from 41 mm to 42 mm in 2018. Steel bracelet with foldover clasp, comfort setting and diver extension.
- 2005Planet Ocean
Took many design cues from the Seamaster 300 and carried George Daniels' Co-Axial escapement in calibre 2500.
- 1993Diver 300M refs. 2531.80 and 2541.80
The Seamaster Professional Diver 300M launched as the automatic 2531.80 and the quartz 2541.80, both later worn by Pierce Brosnan's Bond. The movements were ETA 2892-A2 based.
- 1979Seamaster 200 SHOM
Named by collectors after France's Marine Hydrographic and Oceanographic Service (SHOM), which selected it for its work producing official maps and charts for divers at sea.
- 1967Ref. ST 165.024 military
A small batch of the Seamaster 300, calibre 552, built for the British Ministry of Defence from 1967 to about 1970, with screw-down crowns, tritium T dials and military engravings: 0552 for the Navy, W10 for the Army.
Military cases were delivered with fixed spring bars, so these watches take pass-through straps; Phillips catalogued them on nylon and NATO straps.
- 1957Seamaster 300
Omega's first dedicated Seamaster dive watch, launched with the Speedmaster and Railmaster. Its Naiad crown, marked with a star, signalled the water resistance.
- 1948First Seamaster
Launched in Omega's centenary year with an O-ring gasket rated to 60 metres and marketed for town, sea and country. Christie's notes standard and chronometer self-winding versions.