The story of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut
In 1997 Patek Philippe fitted its new steel Aquanaut with a composite strap instead of a steel bracelet, one built to resist wear, salt water and UV. The Aquanaut was aimed at a younger, active buyer, and it soon ranked among the brand's best-selling men's watches.
Chapters
- 2021 to 2026Luce grows, colours multiply
In 2021 the Luce grew to 38.8mm with a new integrated composite strap, and the chronograph arrived in white gold. The 2023 Ref. 5261R became the first annual calendar in the collection. In 2026 a 250-piece blue Ref. 5167A-014 marked Patek's Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan.
- 2011 to 2018Complications join the line
The Travel Time Ref. 5164 brought a second time zone in 2011. For the twentieth anniversary in 2017 came the 42.2mm white gold Ref. 5168G, the first men's Aquanaut in white gold, and the 500-piece Advanced Research Ref. 5650G. The first Aquanaut chronograph, the Ref. 5968A, followed in 2018.
- 2007A tenth-birthday redesign
For the tenth anniversary Patek replaced the three earlier sizes with the 40mm Ref. 5167 and the 38mm Ref. 5165. The dial pattern was redrawn, the strap was reshaped to follow the case curve, and a new double-security fold-over clasp was developed.
- 2004 to 2005Aquanaut Luce for women
The Aquanaut Luce, named after the Italian word for light, added a diamond-set bezel and coloured dials with matching straps. It appeared first in Italy and Spain in 2004, then worldwide in 2005.
- 1998 to 2006Three sizes and a bracelet
The line soon came in three sizes, with the Ref. 5065 produced from 1998 until 2006. Its embossed dial pattern was carried into both the rubber strap and a brick-pattern steel bracelet.
- 1997A Nautilus for a younger crowd
Then president Philippe Stern wanted a sports watch for young, physically active buyers, and the two-part Nautilus case was too costly for that. Patek chose a simpler three-part case that still reached 120 m, and swapped the hard-to-make steel bracelet for a composite strap. The Ref. 5060A was presented at the 1997 Basel show.
Worn by
McCartney wore an Aquanaut 5165A to his wedding and wore the same model on Carpool Karaoke.
The Late Late Show host added an Aquanaut to his collection and wore it on air in a sketch as Rihanna's assistant.
Drake showed off the Aquanaut chronograph on its orange strap, apparently obtained through his longtime jeweler.
Spotted in Ibiza wearing a white gold Aquanaut 5168G on a khaki green strap that matched his swim trunks.
He wore the original 1997 reference, the Aquanaut 5060A, with a suit to a Los Angeles gala.
Eight days after Patek announced the gem-set rainbow Aquanaut, it was on Jenner's wrist.
Moments
Patek called the composite strap 'Tropical' and described it as resistant to wear, salt water and UV radiation. Christie's notes the Aquanaut was the first Patek fitted with such a strap.
An unworn Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G Advanced Research sold at Christie's Hong Kong on 24 May 2022 for HKD 5,292,000, against an estimate of HKD 2,400,000 to 4,800,000.
The 2018 chronograph's spare orange strap drew mixed reactions at launch; GQ reported orange-strap examples trading near $100,000 on the secondary market a year later.
For its Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan in October 2026, Patek made a 250-piece steel Aquanaut 5167A-014 with a blue gradient dial and red accents, the only steel piece among seven limited editions.
Generations and strap changes
- 2023Ref. 5261R Luce Annual Calendar
The first annual calendar in the Aquanaut collection, in a 39.9mm rose gold case with a blue-gray dial and strap.
- 2018Ref. 5968A Chronograph
The first Aquanaut chronograph, a 42.2mm steel flyback with orange chronograph displays and calibre CH 28-520 C.
Delivered with two composite straps, black fitted and orange as a spare, on a new fold-over clasp with four catches.
- 2017Ref. 5168G
The 20th-anniversary "Jumbo" in white gold, 42.2mm across, the largest Aquanaut at launch, with a night blue gradient dial.
Night blue composite strap with a white gold fold-over clasp; Patek's technical data lists 22 mm between the lugs, but the strap is shaped to the case.
- 2017Ref. 5650G Advanced Research
A 500-piece Travel Time showing a 'compliant' second time zone mechanism made of flexible steel blades, cutting parts from 37 to 12.
- 2011Ref. 5164A Travel Time
A 40.8mm steel Aquanaut with a second time zone set by two pushers on the left flank, powered by calibre 324 S C FUS.
- 2007Ref. 5167A
The tenth-anniversary model: a 40mm case, a redrawn dial with the date replacing the 3 o'clock numeral, and a display caseback.
The composite strap was reshaped to meet the case curve and secured by a new double-security fold-over clasp; a steel bracelet version, Ref. 5167/1A, followed the same design.
- 1998Ref. 5065A "Jumbo"
The model that anchored the line until 2006, with thicker hands and indexes and more luminous material than the Nautilus.
Offered on the rubber strap or on a steel bracelet carrying the same brick pattern.
- 1997Ref. 5060A
The first Aquanaut: a steel case with a rounded octagonal bezel echoing the Nautilus, and a black dial whose relief pattern matched the strap.
Fitted with the 'Tropical' composite strap, chosen over a steel bracelet that was very hard to produce and finish.