The story of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse
In 1968 Patek Philippe launched a watch that was rounded without being round and rectangular without corners, its proportions taken from the golden section. At its 40th birthday in 2008, Patek called it the second-oldest collection, after the Calatrava.
Chapters
- 1977 to 2018Caliber 240 and the long 3738
In 1977 the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240, with a mini-rotor sunk into the movement, entered the Ellipse. The ref. 3738 that carried it moved to a two-piece case with 25 m water resistance, and its 3738/100 version of 1984 became the longest-produced Golden Ellipse, made until 2018.
- 1968 to 1976Blue gold and the golden section
The first Golden Ellipse, ref. 3548, measured 27 x 32 mm in gold and ran on the hand-wound caliber 23-300. Its 18K gold dial glowed a deep blue, a finish obtained by vacuum plating cobalt and 24K gold onto the dial. A lugged twin, ref. 3546, appeared alongside it, and both stayed in the catalogue until 1976.
Worn by
Sat for a 1984 portrait wearing a diamond-set Golden Ellipse with a blue dial and mesh bracelet, the photo that Drake later posted as his inspiration.
Posted himself on Instagram in September 2021 wearing a diamond-bezel Golden Ellipse with a blue dial, alongside the 1984 portrait of the Queen wearing a near-identical watch.
The New York art dealer and Patek collector bought a Golden Ellipse at 23, in the late 1970s, calling it the watch of the rich and famous of that time.
Moments
Patek says the name was inspired by the golden section, the ratio of 1.618 it applied to the case's width and length; the ratio was first described by the Greek mathematician Hippasus around 450 B.C.
After his album Certified Lover Boy topped the charts, Drake posted a diamond-set Ellipse next to a 1984 photo of Elizabeth II wearing a near-identical one. Patek declined to comment, citing customer privacy.
Generations and strap changes
- 2018Refs. 5738R and 5738/50P
The rose-gold 5738R adds an ebony black sunburst dial and an onyx cabochon in the crown. The 5738/50P, 100 pieces in platinum, has a hand-engraved white gold dial with black enamel and came with matching cufflinks.
Both ship on hand-stitched shiny black alligator with a prong buckle echoing the case shape; Patek notes that the strap attachment is concealed beneath the caseband.
- 1984Ref. 3738/100
The longest-running Golden Ellipse, made until 2018. It came in yellow gold with a sunburst blue gold dial, white gold with charcoal and rose gold with chocolate brown.
Patek's 2008 data for the platinum 3738/100P give a 31.10 x 35.60 mm case on an alligator strap with a 14-mm Golden Ellipse prong buckle.
- 1977Ref. 3738
First Ellipse with the self-winding caliber 240. The case became two-piece, giving the line a standard 25 m water resistance for the first time.
Case grew to 31 x 35.5 mm.
- 1974Refs. 3746 and 3748
Successors to the 3546 and 3548, with the slimmer hand-wound caliber 215 in the same 27 x 32 mm size. The 3748 was a hit and stayed in production until 1994.