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    Patek Philippe World Time lug width

    Watch line19 references

    Lug widths across the line

    Patek Philippe World Time references use 18 mm or 20 mm or 21 mm depending on the reference and case size, so check yours in the list below. The most common is 20 mm (10 of 19 references with a known width).

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    Indicative information. Check your watch before buying a strap: whatsmylugwidth.com is not responsible for an incorrect size. Report an error

    Patek Philippe World Time: World Time 5131R-001, rose gold, cloisonné enamel dial
    World Time 5131R-001, rose gold, cloisonné enamel dial. Photo: Scu16M, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
    Patek Philippe World Time: Ref. 1415 World Time with enamel dial, late 1940s
    Ref. 1415 World Time with enamel dial, late 1940s. Photo: EMore98, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    19 Patek Philippe World Time references

    FAQ

    What lug width does the Patek Philippe World Time use?

    Patek Philippe World Time references use 18 mm or 20 mm or 21 mm depending on the reference and case size, so check yours in the list below. The most common is 20 mm (10 of 19 references with a known width).

    Do all Patek Philippe World Time references take the same strap?

    No. 4 different lug widths appear across the line, often by case size or generation. Check the reference engraved on the case back or between the lugs.

    What lug width does the Patek Philippe World Time 5230 have?

    20mm. Patek's technical data for the 38.5mm ref. 5230 gives a width between lugs of 20mm, and the enamel 5231 uses the same case.

    Does the World Time Chronograph 5930 take the same strap?

    21mm. The ref. 5930 has a 39.5mm case.

    What lug width does the 5330G World Time with date have?

    20mm, despite its larger 40mm case. It is delivered on a blue-gray calfskin strap embossed with a denim motif and a white gold fold-over clasp.

    What strap and clasp come on a World Time?

    The 5230 comes on a hand-stitched alligator strap with large square scales and a Calatrava fold-over clasp in gold matching the case: shiny black for white gold, chocolate brown for rose gold.

    The story of the Patek Philippe World Time

    24time zones read at a glance on the modern World Time
    26ref. 2523 watches ever cased: 18 yellow gold, 7 pink gold, 1 white gold
    more than 35 yearsgap without a Patek world time model, 1965 to 2000
    CHF 6,603,500price of the platinum 1415 HU in 2002, then a record for any wristwatch

    Chapters

    1. 2016 to today
      5230, a chronograph and a date

      Updated time zones prompted ref. 5230 in 2016, a 38.5mm case with winglet-style lugs reworked under Sandrine Stern. The World Time Chronograph ref. 5930 was unveiled the same year, and in 2024 ref. 5330 entered the regular collection with a date display synchronized with local time.

    2. 2000 to 2016
      The pusher era: 5110, 5130, 5131

      Ref. 5110 of 2000 replaced the second crown with a pusher at 10 o'clock and an automatic calibre 240 HU, in a 37mm case. Ref. 5130 grew to 39.5mm in 2006, and ref. 5131 brought cloisonné enamel map dials back.

    3. 1965 to 2000
      Thirty-five years without one

      After 1965 Patek Philippe offered no new world time watches for more than 35 years. In 1999 it announced a patented mechanism that resets city disk, 24-hour disk and hour hand together with one push.

    4. 1953 to 1965
      Two crowns: ref. 2523

      Ref. 2523 moved the cities onto the dial and added a second crown at 9 o'clock to turn them. Only 26 were cased, 18 in yellow gold, 7 in pink and 1 in white, followed after 1957 by about 20 ref. 2523-1 with slimmer lugs.

    5. 1939 to 1954
      Ref. 1415 HU, the 31mm original

      Ref. 1415 HU was the first series World Time: a 31mm case with teardrop lugs and a hand-engraved bezel that the wearer turned to put the home city at 12. Christie's counts some 115 movements converted for it. Early bezels listed 28 cities, later ones up to 42, and cloisonné enamel dials arrived only in the last years.

    6. 1931 to 1939
      Cottier's invention, first prototypes

      Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier devised a world time display that set a 24-hour ring and a ring of city names around the ordinary hands. Patek Philippe commissioned him, and the earliest pieces were one-offs and tiny series: a rectangular ref. 515 of 1937 with 28 cities on the dial, the ref. 542 HU with a rotating bezel, and a single Calatrava ref. 96 HU.

    Worn by

    Chris PaulSport2018

    The NBA player wore a yellow gold ref. 5130 World Time in a 2018 New York Times interview, and GQ singled out his 5130 again in 2021.

    Mark WahlbergScreen2024

    Walked the red carpet wearing the new World Time 5330G-001 on its denim-embossed strap.

    Lee Kun-heeBusiness2002

    The Samsung chairman bought the unique platinum 1415 HU at Antiquorum in 2002, and his collection consigned it to Christie's in 2021.

    Henry Graves Jr.Business

    A gold ref. 605 World Time dress watch of about 1945, sold to Henry Graves Jr., set a world record for this model without cloisonne enamel dial at Antiquorum in April 2002.

    Moments

    On 13 April 2002 in Geneva, lot 608, the probably unique platinum ref. 1415 HU, sold for CHF 6,603,500, a world record for any wristwatch at the time. The same sale set the model record for a pink gold 1415 HU with enamel dial at CHF 2,753,500.

    On 28 May 2023 Christie's Hong Kong sold a 1955 yellow gold 2523 with a cloisonné North America map, one of three known, for HKD 66,625,000 in a standalone evening sale. It had sold at Christie's Geneva in 2012 for CHF 2,771,000.

    At Phillips in May 2016 a 1954 ref. 2523/1 achieved US$2.5 million, the year the 5230 was introduced at Baselworld.

    Collectors call the 5230G-001 the 'Hong Kong' because it was the last version with that city on the disk before Patek switched to Beijing.

    Patek chose Tokyo for its sixth Grand Exhibition, held from 10 to 25 June 2023 at the Sumitomo Sankaku Hiroba in Shinjuku. It used the show for the global debut of the 5330G-010, its first World Time with a date synchronised to local time.

    Generations and strap changes

    1. 2024
      Ref. 5330G

      First regular-production World Time with a date synchronised to local time, read by a glass hand with a red tip. It debuted as a 300-piece edition in Tokyo in June 2023.

      40mm case, 20mm between the lugs, on a denim-embossed calfskin strap.

    2. 2019
      Ref. 5231

      The enamel-dial sister of the 5230, launched in yellow gold with a cloisonné map of Europe, Africa and the Americas.

      Same 38.5mm case with winglet lugs as the 5230.

    3. 2016
      Ref. 5230

      Replaced all previous World Time models, with updated cities, a hand-guilloched basket weave centre and a Southern Cross hour hand.

      38.5mm case, 20mm between the lugs, on alligator with a Calatrava fold-over clasp.

    4. 2016
      Ref. 5930 Chronograph

      World Time paired with a self-winding flyback chronograph, calibre CH 28-520 HU, a combination Patek had previously made only once, in the 1940s.

      39.5mm case, 21mm between the lugs.

    5. 2008
      Ref. 5131

      Cloisonné enamel map centres return, each metal assigned a region of the world. From 2019 it stayed in the catalogue only on a bracelet.

      39.5mm case; after the 5231 launch in 2019 the 5131 continued only with a bracelet.

    6. 2006
      Ref. 5130

      Successor to the 5110 with ring-shaped hour hand, sunray decoration and applied markers, in four metals.

      Case enlarged from 37mm to 39.5mm.

    7. 2000
      Ref. 5110

      Phillips calls it the first serially produced World Time and the first since the 2523. It brought an automatic movement and a pusher at 10 o'clock instead of the second crown, in four metals.

      37mm case with crown guards.

    8. 1939
      Ref. 1415 HU

      31mm, engraved rotating city bezel. Made mostly in yellow gold, a few in pink gold and one in platinum, some with cloisonné enamel dials.

      31mm case with teardrop lugs.

    About Patek Philippe

    Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Switzerland.

    The Patek Philippe story

    Help

    What is lug width?

    The gap between the two lugs that hold the strap, in millimetres. A new strap must match it exactly: 20 mm lugs take a 20 mm strap.

    Measure it in 30 seconds

    1. Take the strap off, or look at the back of it: many straps print their width.
    2. Measure the inside gap between the lugs with a caliper or a millimetre ruler.
    3. Round to the nearest whole millimetre. Most watches use 18, 20 or 22 mm.

    Strap, quick release or system?

    Most watches use spring bars, so any strap of the right width fits. Many smartwatches use their own band system instead, such as Apple Watch bands or Garmin QuickFit.