The story of the Rolex Day-Date
In 1956 no watch had ever spelled out the day of the week beside the date. Then Lyndon B. Johnson wore a gold one in a 1965 photo of his surgery scar, and Rolex started calling it "The President's Watch".
Chapters
- 2015 to todayDay-Date 40 and calibre 3255
At Basel 2015 Rolex cut the large model to 40mm and gave it calibre 3255 with Chronergy escapement and about 70 hours of reserve. The 36mm continues alongside, still only in precious metals.
- 2008 to 2015Day-Date II goes to 41mm
For Rolex's 100th birthday the 41mm Day-Date II joined the 36mm model in 2008. References 218238 and 218235 had a seven-year run.
- 2000 to 2008Wider lugs, Crownclasp
The 118000 series of 2000 brought the first significant changes to the case, widening the lugs. The President bracelet gained solid links and the hidden Crownclasp.
- 1978 to 2000Sapphire, quickset and quartz
Ref. 18038 opened the five-digit era in 1978 with calibre 3055, a quick-set date and a sapphire crystal. Calibre 3155 then let day and date be set independently. Alongside, the quartz Oysterquartz Day-Date 19018 had an angular case and integrated bracelet, and stayed in the catalogue until 2001.
- 1960 to 1978Ref. 1803 and the President
Ref. 1803 kept the 36mm gold case and fluted bezel and rode on the hidden-clasp President bracelet, three rounded links wide. Presidents Eisenhower, Johnson and Nixon wore 1800-series watches, which fixed the 'President' nickname.
- 1956 to 1959The day, spelled out
Rolex unveiled the Day-Date in 1956 with references 6510 and 6511, adding a full day name at 12 to the date at 3. Ref. 6611 followed about a year later with a chronometer movement. The first references came only in gold.
Worn by
His best-known watch was an 18K yellow gold Day-Date on the President bracelet, prominent in a 1965 photo of his surgery scar.
Rolex gave him a yellow gold ref. 1803 in 1967, his first watch, worn for 12 of his 18 major wins.
Owned and wore a ref. 1803; it sold at Sotheby's New York in 2024 for $840,000.
The Dallas Cowboys coach owned and wore a ref. 1803, sold at Sotheby's New York in 2023.
Owned and wore a ref. 228235, sold at Sotheby's New York in 2024 for $96,000.
Owned and wore a platinum ref. 228396TBR with meteorite dial, sold at Sotheby's New York in 2024 for $168,000.
Moments
1966. A 1966 Rolex advertisement called the Day-Date "The President's Watch", the year after Johnson's scar photo.
1970s. Oil money made the gold Day-Date so common among wealthy Texans that it was dubbed the 'Texas Timex'; by the mid-1980s Texas sold more Rolex watches than any other US state.
2024. Sotheby's New York sold the ref. 1803 owned and worn by Egyptian President Gamal Nasser for $840,000.
2022. Sotheby's set the auction record for a Day-Date with a ref. 18059 'Rainbow Khanjar', pavé diamond dial and gemstone markers.
1962. A gold Rolex engraved "Jack, With love as always from Marilyn, May 29th 1962" sold for $120,000 at Alexander Autographs. Kennedy reportedly told an aide to get rid of it.
Generations and strap changes
- 2008Ref. 218238 Day-Date II
Introduced for Rolex's 100th birthday, retired in 2015.
Case size changed to 41mm.
- 2000Ref. 118238
Six-digit series with a Rolex engraving on the rehaut.
Lugs widened for the first time; President bracelet with solid links and Crownclasp.
- 1960Ref. 1803
The long-running 36mm reference, made circa 1960 to 1978, with calibres 1555 then 1556. Its 'pie-pan' dial edge distinguishes it from later flat dials.
36mm gold case on the hidden-clasp President bracelet.
- 1957Ref. 6611
Replaced the first pair after about a year, with a chronometer-certified movement stated on the dial.
- 1956Refs. 6510 and 6511
The first Day-Dates, domed bezel (6510) and fluted bezel (6511), in gold only.