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    Rolex Pearlmaster lug width

    Watch line22 references

    Lug widths across the line

    The Rolex Pearlmaster takes a 20 mm strap: all 5 references with a known width use 20 mm.

    Filter references by lug width

    Indicative information. Check your watch before buying a strap: whatsmylugwidth.com is not responsible for an incorrect size. Report an error

    22 Rolex Pearlmaster references

    FAQ

    What lug width does the Rolex Pearlmaster use?

    The Rolex Pearlmaster takes a 20 mm strap: all 5 references with a known width use 20 mm.

    What makes the Pearlmaster bracelet different from other Rolex bracelets?

    It has five rounded pieces per link, is entirely mirror-polished and closes with a concealed Crownclasp. Phillips notes each Pearlmaster has a bracelet unique to the model, with wide flat links made for gem-setting.

    Which case sizes exist?

    The line started in 29mm and 34mm. A 39mm version joined in 2015, and by the end of production only 34mm and 39mm remained.

    Does the Pearlmaster 39 bracelet resist stretch?

    Yes. Its gold bracelet hides ceramic inserts where the links fold over each other, meant to reduce stretching and wear. The same system is used on the Day-Date 40.

    How long is a Lady Pearlmaster 29mm bracelet?

    Phillips lists a maximum overall length of 175mm for the Ref. 80285 it sold; check the link count of any individual watch before buying.

    The story of the Rolex Pearlmaster

    For three decades Rolex never wrote the word Pearlmaster on a dial: the name lived in the bracelet, five rounded pieces per link closed by a hidden clasp. Every one was cut from precious metal and set with at least 12 stones.

    48hand-set baguette sapphires on most Pearlmaster 39 bezels
    CHF 128,0002015 list price of the full pave dial Pearlmaster 39
    12minimum number of diamonds or gemstones on any Pearlmaster

    Chapters

    1. 2015 to 2022
      34mm and 39mm only

      By the end of its run the Pearlmaster was offered in 34mm and 39mm only. The original three 39mm launch references left the catalogue quickly, while the 39mm size stayed on.

    2. 1992 to 2014
      Bracelets built for stones

      The line was defined by a bracelet unique to the model, its wide flat links leaving room for gem-setting. Pieces such as the circa 2014 Ref. 80285 carried channel-set diamonds down the bracelet sides and a diamond-set bezel.

    3. 1992
      A grander Lady-Datejust

      Rolex launched the Pearlmaster in 1992 as a more lavish take on the Lady-Datejust. It came in 29mm and 34mm, sized for its role as a premium ladies' watch. From the start it was made only in precious metal.

    Worn by

    DrakeMusic

    Photographed wearing a 39mm Datejust Pearlmaster in yellow gold and another in 18K white gold.

    LeBron JamesSport

    Shown in a photo wearing his Pearlmaster, shared by @celebwatchspotter.

    Travis ScottMusic

    Pictured wearing a 39mm yellow gold Datejust Pearlmaster.

    Lil Uzi VertMusic

    Pictured wearing the same 39mm yellow gold Datejust Pearlmaster as Travis Scott.

    Neymar Jr.Sport

    Pictured with the 39mm Pearlmaster in its Cognac version.

    Kylie JennerCulture

    Pictured wearing a full-diamond Datejust Pearlmaster.

    Moments

    The Pearlmaster name comes from its bracelet of five rounded pieces per link with a concealed Crownclasp; the word never appears on the dial, which reads Datejust or Day-Date.

    A circa 2014 Ref. 80285 in Everose with a mother-of-pearl lotus dial sold for $38,100 against a $15,000 to 30,000 estimate at The New York Watch Auction: XIV.

    A Ref. 80285 of the same Everose and lotus design sold for $24,130 at The New York Watch Auction: XII, estimate $20,000 to 40,000.

    Rolex rejects more stones than it accepts for the gradient sapphire bezels, and each one takes two weeks to produce.

    Generations and strap changes

    1. 1992
      Lady Pearlmaster 29mm and 34mm

      The first Pearlmasters were premium Lady-Datejust models in two sizes, always in precious metal and always gem-set.

      Fitted with the Pearlmaster bracelet: five rounded pieces per link, fully mirror-polished, with a concealed Crownclasp.

    2. circa 2014
      Ref. 80285

      A 29mm Pearlmaster Lady-Datejust in Everose and white gold with a mother-of-pearl lotus dial, diamond-set bezel and automatic calibre 2235.

      18K pink gold bracelet with channel-set diamonds on its sides; Phillips lists a maximum overall length of 175mm for the lot example.

    3. 2015
      Ref. 86348 (Pearlmaster 39, yellow gold)

      The 39mm yellow gold model ran on the in-house calibre 3235 with about 70 hours of power reserve. Most bezels carried 48 hand-set baguette sapphires; a full pave diamond dial version listed at CHF 128,000.

      Five-link Pearlmaster bracelet in gold with hidden ceramic inserts, a first for Rolex gold bracelets, shared with the Day-Date 40.

    4. 2015
      Ref. 86349 SAFUBL (white gold)

      Ref. 86349 SAFUBL (white gold): The white gold launch version paired a red grape dial with a gradient sapphire bezel. Its code stands for Sapphires Fuschia Bleu.

    About Rolex

    Founded in 1905 in London, United Kingdom.

    Ambassadors include Roger Federer, Tiger Woods, Mark Webber The Rolex story

    Help

    What is lug width?

    The gap between the two lugs that hold the strap, in millimetres. A new strap must match it exactly: 20 mm lugs take a 20 mm strap.

    Measure it in 30 seconds

    1. Take the strap off, or look at the back of it: many straps print their width.
    2. Measure the inside gap between the lugs with a caliper or a millimetre ruler.
    3. Round to the nearest whole millimetre. Most watches use 18, 20 or 22 mm.

    Strap, quick release or system?

    Most watches use spring bars, so any strap of the right width fits. Many smartwatches use their own band system instead, such as Apple Watch bands or Garmin QuickFit.