The story of the Rolex Sea-Dweller
Rolex built the Sea-Dweller in 1967 for divers who live for weeks under pressure, and gave it a valve that lets helium out of the case. In 1992 Comex diver Theo Mavrostomos reached 701 metres in a hyperbaric chamber over a 43-day mission, a Sea-Dweller on his wrist the whole time.
Chapters
- 2017 to todayFifty years, three more millimetres
For the 50th anniversary Rolex enlarged the case from 40 to 43 mm, fitted calibre 3235, added a Cyclops lens and printed Sea-Dweller in red, a nod to the 1967 original. The lug width went from 20 to 22 mm. A Rolesor version, ref. 126603, followed, its lettering in yellow.
- 1978 to 1989Twice as deep
The ref. 16660, nicknamed Triple Six, doubled the rating to 1,220 metres. It kept a 40 mm diameter but grew thicker, switched to sapphire, gained a larger valve and a unidirectional bezel.
- 1971 to 1997Standard issue at Comex
Rolex formalised its partnership with the French diving firm Comex, whose saturation divers trusted only Rolex on deep dives. Comex received its own dial versions: 300 ref. 1665 from 1977 to 1981, 200 ref. 16660 from 1980 to 1984 and 200 ref. 16600 from 1992 to 1997.
- 1967 to 1977The valve that saved crystals
The production ref. 1665, the Double Red, was waterproof to 610 metres and carried the helium escape valve Rolex patented in 1967. During decompression the valve opens on its own once internal pressure exceeds outside pressure by 2.5 bar, so the crystal stays put.
Worn by
The Comex diver became the first person to reach 701 metres in a simulated dive during the Hydra X programme and wore a Sea-Dweller for all 43 days of the mission.
The naval pilot, marine biologist and Deepstar-4000 submersible pilot tested a Single Red 1665 prototype; Rolex is believed to have given it to him in November 1968 for the submersible's 500th dive. It sold at Phillips for CHF 708,500.
The hyperbaric researcher owned Single Red prototype 1'820'177, the first to carry a gas escape valve.
Single Red prototype 1'602'920, with helium valve, belonged to him according to the Phillips list of known examples.
On his solo dive to the Challenger Deep, an experimental Deepsea Challenge rode on the submersible's arm while, according to NUVO, his personal Deepsea was on his wrist. In August 2014, coinciding with the release of his film, Rolex introduced a Deepsea with a D-Blue dial.
He wore a Rolex Deepsea D-Blue as he received the green jacket for his fifth Masters title in Augusta.
Moments
In November 2018 Phillips sold the Bradley Single Red prototype, case 1'602'913 and possibly the earliest made, for CHF 708,500, a world record for a Sea-Dweller.
A Single Red prototype ref. 1665 sold at Antiquorum in Geneva for CHF 490,900, four times its pre-sale estimate, to a Japanese collector.
In 1988 six Comex divers wearing Sea-Dwellers left their habitat at 534 metres in the Mediterranean off Marseille and connected two pipeline sections. Rolex says the open-sea record still stands.
On 26 March 2012 James Cameron dived alone to 10,908 metres with an experimental Rolex Deepsea Challenge on the submersible's manipulator arm. It worked throughout the seven-hour dive.
Generations and strap changes
- 2022Ref. 126067 Deepsea Challenge
50 mm RLX titanium civilian version of the experimental watch from Cameron's 2012 dive, rated to 11,000 m. The first all-titanium Rolex.
Titanium Oyster bracelet with Glidelock and Fliplock extension systems.
- 2018Ref. 126660 Deepsea
Calibre 3235 replaced the 3135; diameter, Maxi dial and the black and D-Blue dials carried over.
Lug width went from 21 to 22 mm, which required a new, wider Oyster bracelet (per Monochrome).
- 2017Ref. 126600
43 mm, calibre 3235 with about 70 hours of reserve, Cyclops over the date, Sea-Dweller in red. Still rated to 1,220 m.
Lugs widened from 20 to 22 mm; Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock clasp and Glidelock.
- 2014Ref. 116600 SD4000
Return of the 40 mm Sea-Dweller with Cerachrom bezel, calibre 3135 and no Cyclops. Made only until 2017.
Oyster bracelet with Glidelock (20 mm of adjustment in 2 mm steps) and a 26 mm Fliplock extension link; 20 mm lugs per Monochrome.
- 1978Ref. 16660 Triple Six
1,220 m rating, sapphire crystal, larger helium valve, unidirectional bezel and calibre 3035 with quick-set date. Early dials were matte with painted markers, later ones glossy with white gold surrounds.
Diameter stayed at 40 mm while the case grew thicker.
- 1967Ref. 1665 Single Red
Prototype with Sea-Dweller in red on one line and a 500 m / 1650 ft rating, metres listed first. Some had no helium valve and a slightly thinner case.
A Phillips example measured 40 mm and came on Oyster bracelet ref. 9315 with a flip lock extendable clasp.