Universal Genève Polerouter Sub

The strap size depends on the reference. Yours is engraved on the case back or between the lugs at 6 o'clock.

20 or 22 mm

Verification: From our database, not yet verified

38 to 42 mm cases · 1964 to 1972

Filter references by lug width

Indicative information. Check your watch before buying a strap: whatsmylugwidth.com is not responsible for an incorrect size.

Watch line10 references
20 mm
Illustration drawn to scale: 38 mm case, 20 mm lugs

The story · Since 1954

The story of the Universal Genève Polerouter Sub

In 1954 a 23-year-old Gerald Genta drew a watch for Scandinavian Airlines crews flying over the North Pole. Seven years later Universal Genève sent that Polerouter underwater: the Polerouter Sub, a 200 m diver.

23

Gerald Genta's age when he designed the Polarouter

Read the full storyHide the story
23Gerald Genta's age when he designed the Polarouter
about 170first-series watches with the SAS logo
200 mwater resistance of the first Polerouter Sub, ref. 20369
57 hourspower reserve of the Microtor movement in a 869120/02

Chapters

  1. 1954

    A watch for the polar route

    Scandinavian Airlines asked Universal Genève for a watch to mark its new commercial route over the North Pole. The commission introduced the young Gerald Genta, and the first pieces went to the crews of the inaugural flight on landing in Los Angeles on 15 November 1954. Around 170 watches with the SAS logo were made in the first series.

  2. 1961 to 1963

    Diving in a Super Compressor

    The first Polerouter Sub, ref. 20369, used a 42 mm case modelled on the EPSA Super Compressor, with two crowns and an inner rotating bezel, and was water-resistant to 200 metres. Universal advertised the lume between 0 and 20 minutes on that bezel.

  3. 2024 to 2026

    The Polerouter returns

    Under Breitling's ownership, Universal Genève marked the 70th anniversary of the polar flight in November 2024 with three unique Polerouter SAS Tribute watches of 35 mm. In April 2026 it relaunched the Polerouter as a collection of 37 mm and 39 mm watches with the new UG-110 micro-rotor caliber; no new Sub was part of these launches.

Moments

2017. A 1966 Polerouter Sub ref. 869116/01, confirmed by an Extract from the Archives, realised CHF 8,125.

2015. A 1967 Polerouter Sub ref. 869116/02 with green bezel, three spare bezels and its bracelet sold for CHF 8,750 against an estimate of CHF 3,000 to 5,000.

1954. On 15 November 1954 an SAS Douglas DC-6B left Copenhagen for Los Angeles over the pole, carrying the prime ministers of Denmark, Sweden and Norway. SAS crew were photographed wearing the new watches at Los Angeles airport; the story that each prime minister received one has never been confirmed by archives.

Designed by

Gerald Gentadesigner1954

Commissioned at 23 to design a watch marking the SAS polar flights, Genta drew the Polarouter with its two-layer dial and twisted lugs; the SAS-dial ref. 20217-6 is the first execution. No source credits him with the later Polerouter Sub itself.

Generations and strap changes

  1. 2026
    UGPO001 to UGPO012 Polerouter

    The relaunched Polerouter (not a Sub) in 39 mm and 37 mm, with a date only on the 39 mm UGPO001 to UGPO003, all with the UG-110 micro-rotor caliber and 100 m water resistance.

    20 mm lugs on the 39 mm models, 18 mm on the 37 mm models; the maker lists an 18/16 mm strap for the 37 mm UGPO007.

  2. 1968
    Ref. 869120/02

    An asymmetric case thicker on the crown side to act as a crown guard, a screw-down signed crown, a bidirectional bezel, and a Microtor movement with 57 hours of power reserve.

    40 mm wide by 48 mm long with a 20 mm lug width; Worn & Wound notes it was offered on a bracelet with fitted end links.

  3. 1966
    Ref. 869116

    An asymmetrical steel case with revolving bezel, sweep seconds and date, powered by calibre UG 69. Christie's sold a 1966 ref. 869116/01 for CHF 8,125.

    38 mm diameter per Christie's and Phillips; Phillips sold a 869116/02 on a signed Universal Genève steel bracelet with deployant clasp.

  4. 1964
    Ref. 204615

    A Sub with an external bezel, a date window and a symmetrical case.

    Case shrinks to 38 mm.

  5. 1961
    Ref. 20369 Super Compressor

    The first Polerouter Sub: two crowns, an inner rotating bezel and 200 m water resistance, in an EPSA Super Compressor-style case.

    42 mm case, much larger than the 1950s Polerouter; Christie's sold one on a Gay Frères steel bracelet.

  6. 1954
    Ref. 20217-6 SAS Polarouter

    The steel SAS-dial Polarouter, with the calibre 138SS bumper automatic, given to crews of the first polar flights. Phillips pairs it with an 18k gold ref. 10234-1 launched in November 1954.

    Sotheby's catalogues a 20217-6 at 36 mm; no acceptable source states its lug width.

10 Universal Genève Polerouter Sub references

Universal Genève Polerouter Sub references in our database. Each card says where its width comes from: listed by the maker (linked to the maker's page in the details), two independent sources agree, or listed in our database and not yet verified by us.

  • 869120/01

    Polerouter Sub I Black

    Lug width: 20 mm

    Source: Database

    Case size: 38 mmYear: 1964Black dialCase material: Steel

    Attachment
    classic lugs
    Style
    diver
    Movement
    Automatic
    Caseback
    S olid back
    Production
    1964-1968
    Status
    Listed in our database, not yet verified
  • 869120/02

    Polerouter Sub I Grey

    Lug width: 20 mm

    Source: Database

    Case size: 38 mmYear: 1964Grey dialCase material: Steel

    Attachment
    classic lugs
    Style
    diver
    Movement
    Automatic
    Caseback
    Solid back
    Production
    1964-1968
    Status
    Listed in our database, not yet verified
  • 869120/04

    Polerouter Sub II Black/Orange

    Lug width: 20 mm

    Source: Database

    Case size: 38 mmYear: 1966Black/Orange dialCase material: Steel

    Attachment
    classic lugs
    Style
    diver
    Movement
    Automatic
    Caseback
    Solid back
    Production
    1966-1970
    Status
    Listed in our database, not yet verified
  • 869120/03

    Polerouter Sub II Blue

    Lug width: 20 mm

    Source: Database

    Case size: 38 mmYear: 1966Blue dialCase material: Steel

    Attachment
    classic lugs
    Style
    diver
    Movement
    Automatic
    Caseback
    Solid back
    Production
    1966-1970
    Status
    Listed in our database, not yet verified
  • 869120/05

    Polerouter Sub “Skin Diver”

    Lug width: 20 mm

    Source: Database

    Case size: 38 mmYear: 1967Black dialCase material: Steel

    Attachment
    classic lugs
    Style
    diver
    Movement
    Automatic
    Caseback
    Solid back
    Production
    1967-1971
    Status
    Listed in our database, not yet verified
  • 869120/06

    Polerouter Sub Compressor

    Lug width: 22 mm

    Source: Database

    Case size: 42 mmYear: 1967Black Compressor dialCase material: Steel

    Attachment
    classic lugs
    Style
    diver
    Movement
    Automatic
    Caseback
    Solid back
    Production
    1967-1971
    Status
    Listed in our database, not yet verified
  • 869120/07

    Polerouter Sub Red Depth

    Lug width: 20 mm

    Source: Database

    Case size: 38 mmYear: 1968Black/Red dialCase material: Steel

    Attachment
    classic lugs
    Style
    diver
    Movement
    Automatic
    Caseback
    Solid back
    Production
    1968-1971
    Status
    Listed in our database, not yet verified
  • 869120/08

    Polerouter Sub NOS Dial

    Lug width: 20 mm

    Source: Database

    Case size: 38 mmYear: 1969Matte Black dialCase material: Steel

    Attachment
    classic lugs
    Style
    diver
    Movement
    Automatic
    Caseback
    Solid back
    Production
    1969-1971
    Status
    Listed in our database, not yet verified
  • 869120/09

    Polerouter Sub White Markers

    Lug width: 20 mm

    Source: Database

    Case size: 38 mmYear: 1970Black/White dialCase material: Steel

    Attachment
    classic lugs
    Style
    diver
    Movement
    Automatic
    Caseback
    Display back
    Production
    1970-1972
    Status
    Listed in our database, not yet verified
  • 869120/10

    Polerouter Sub Final Series

    Lug width: 20 mm

    Source: Database

    Case size: 38 mmYear: 1972Black dialCase material: Steel

    Attachment
    classic lugs
    Style
    diver
    Movement
    Automatic
    Caseback
    Solid back
    Production
    1972-1974
    Status
    Listed in our database, not yet verified

FAQ

What lug width does the Universal Genève Polerouter Sub use?

Universal Genève Polerouter Sub references use 20 mm or 22 mm depending on the reference and case size, so check yours in the list below. The most common is 20 mm (9 of 10 references with a known width). These widths come from our database and are not yet verified.

Do all Universal Genève Polerouter Sub references take the same strap?

No. 2 different lug widths appear across the line, often by case size or generation. Check the reference engraved on the case back or between the lugs.

What lug width does the Polerouter Sub ref. 869120 take?

Worn & Wound measured a ref. 869120-02 at 20 mm between the lugs, on a 40 mm by 48 mm asymmetric case.

Are all Polerouter Subs the same size?

No. The first Super Compressor ref. 20369 of 1961 is 42 mm; ref. 204615 of 1964 is 38 mm, and the asymmetric 869120 measures 40 mm wide by 48 mm long.

Did the Polerouter Sub come on a bracelet?

Yes: Worn & Wound says they were offered on a bracelet with fitted end links, now rare and costly. Auction examples include a Universal Genève steel bracelet with deployant clasp (Phillips) and a Gay Frères bracelet (Christie's).

What strap suits a vintage Polerouter Sub?

Worn & Wound's tester, unable to find an affordable original bracelet, fitted a vintage big-hole Tropic strap to his 869120-02; Bonhams sold a 20369 on a black rubber Tropic strap.

What lug width do the new 2026 Polerouters use?

The 39 mm models take 20 mm straps and the 37 mm models 18 mm; Universal Genève lists an 18/16 mm strap on the 37 mm steel model. These are Polerouters, not Subs.

Other Universal Genève collections

Help

What is lug width?

The gap between the two lugs that hold the strap, in millimetres. A new strap must match it exactly: 20 mm lugs take a 20 mm strap.

Measure it in 30 seconds

  1. Take the strap off, or look at the back of it: many straps print their width.
  2. Measure the inside gap between the lugs with a caliper or a millimetre ruler.
  3. Round to the nearest whole millimetre. Most watches use 18, 20 or 22 mm.

Strap, quick release or system?

Most watches use spring bars, so any strap of the right width fits. Many smartwatches use their own band system instead, such as Apple Watch bands or Garmin QuickFit.